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Kupar

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Posts posted by Kupar

  1. 6 hours ago, arigalo said:

    Now there’s an idea! I’m sure one exists. There’s certainly a lot of work in medical humanities and whatnot. 

    "The effect of beach time on cortisol levels and long-term stress."

    "Hearing loss in the surfing community."

    "Summer and winter beach etiquette: a study of Santa Cruz, CA, in the calendar year 2025." (Requires a year-long research project, fully funded.)

  2. 18 minutes ago, arigalo said:

    I’ve also been trying to get dual citizenship in Italy. 

    Oooh! I know someone @Bacardi who would be very jealous if you succeeded! 

    19 minutes ago, arigalo said:

    For a job, I’d probably still like to be a professor.

    That's great! I know many people (myself and my daughter among them) for whom the dream of academia died sometime around getting our bachelors / masters. I'm pleased for you that you have the determination to continue with your academic work xx

    Thanks so much for answering my questions!

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  3. 1 hour ago, gldenwetgoose said:

     But Unit 2 is always going to be powered, since it's directly across the supply.  Instead if you powered Unit 2 from the supply after the switch - by the Unit 2 LED and resistor you'd save on having the unit powered continuously.

    Doh! Yes. Thanks for spotting my error and suggesting the correction 🙂 

    1 hour ago, gldenwetgoose said:

    depending on your love or loathing for Amazon Alexa,

    Yes - I have seen that suggested, but I'm more in the loathe camp 🙂

    1 hour ago, gldenwetgoose said:

    Other than that - do you want some sort of chime or call buzzer?  Or just switching on the unit and talking?  I'm guessing the circuit is aimed at the sort of door intercoms you get, where the microphone has fairly low sensitivity, so you talk directly into it and a small speaker.

    I had assumed we wouldn't need a separate buzzer. I hope to select mics and speakers that will give a reasonable volume at the listening end. The amplifier circuit can deliver 1 watt into an 8 ohm speaker. We'll see if that's enough at breadboard stage. If not, a buzzer refinement may be needed. 

    Thank you 🙂

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  4. 3 minutes ago, Kupar said:

    I'm considering building an intercom to connect upstairs with downstairs in the house K and I are moving to shortly (fingers crossed). We will have neighbours whose house joins on to ours, and over the last 20+ years while living in a detached house we've become used to shouting loudly to each other when in different rooms - something we probably ought to not do in future.

    I could install a front-door type unit 'off the shelf' but where's the fun in that? I found a neat circuit for a hands-free, always-on wired intercom that looks about right for my limited level of ability.

    https://www.redcircuits.com/Page78.htm

    But I don't want it always-on. And I don't want it battery powered either. Rather, I want the whole thing to be powered by a 9Vdc supply at one end, with the ability for either unit to switch the power on when communication is needed, and off when it's not. And a means of seeing when it's on or off.

    So, friends with electrical / electronics expertise, will this refinement work? I know it looks like I'll end up running a screened wire for the audio and a separate 4-core cable for the power / switching, but I don't think that matters.

     

    Power.png

    Oh - and I won't bother with the muting switch in the main circuit.

  5. I'm considering building an intercom to connect upstairs with downstairs in the house K and I are moving to shortly (fingers crossed). We will have neighbours whose house joins on to ours, and over the last 20+ years while living in a detached house we've become used to shouting loudly to each other when in different rooms - something we probably ought to not do in future.

    I could install a front-door type unit 'off the shelf' but where's the fun in that? I found a neat circuit for a hands-free, always-on wired intercom that looks about right for my limited level of ability.

    https://www.redcircuits.com/Page78.htm

    But I don't want it always-on. And I don't want it battery powered either. Rather, I want the whole thing to be powered by a 9Vdc supply at one end, with the ability for either unit to switch the power on when communication is needed, and off when it's not. And a means of seeing when it's on or off.

    So, friends with electrical / electronics expertise, will this refinement work? I know it looks like I'll end up running a screened wire for the audio and a separate 4-core cable for the power / switching, but I don't think that matters.

     

    Power.png

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